CAMERAS
People
are always amazed when somebody says that the camera is older than photography.
Many discoveries and unsuccessful experiments were required to bring
the camera to the technological point of being able to record an image
on film. In about 1000 BC the Arabic found that light through a small
hole in a dark and closed space projects an image. The first camera
obscura was made to study the eclipse phenomenon.
The
history of the camera.
Nowadays,
new technology brings more and more competition, and there are many
brands on the market. The difference between them is not really all
that great, and most can take good pictures. However, no matter what
brand you have, you must learn the basics.
Photography
is expensive so that means that the camera brand you choose for the
body is the brand you are going to stickwith for awhile. Check prices
and brands, and think about which system will best fit your needs.
What
ikind of photography do you want to focus on? The new 35mm cameras are
great for travel because they are lightweight. The downside is that
if you are in the middle of your trip and you accidentally hit it really
hard it is very possible you will not have a camera for the rest of
the trip. Because of that reason and night photography I like old steel
body cameras, they are very heavy duty.
I
had this classmate that could never stop talking about his camera's
multiple features, but he never could take a good picture. Think in
what you need not what you want! There are so many cool products, cameras
full of features and fancy technology. All you really need to start
is just one simple camera, the rest will come in time.
Take
the time to learn the basics.
LENSES
There are so many types of lenses to talk about. I will start with the
traditional 50mm. The 50mm lens is a normal because it renders a subject
at the same scale that we see it. That is, what we see in the frame
of the view finder is the same proportion that you see without the camera.
They also have faster apertures--even f/1.2--and can be hand held in
poor light conditions with generally good results. Also thanks to the
proliferation of do-everything zooms you can find 50mm lenses at very
competitive prices. But what is all about mm and f / and aperture and
speed?
There
are four main types of lenses: Wide Angle, Normal, Telephoto, and Zoom.
All lenses are measured in "focal length" - the length in
millimeters (mm) of the internal focusing lens itself. This measurement
is written somewhere on each lens--usually on the front glass. Wide
angle lenses go from 17mm to 38mm, normal from 50mm to 58mm, and telephoto
and zoom can be from 70mm to 1200mm.
shutter is a mechanical device that acts as a gate, and controls the
duration of time that light is allowed to pass through the lens and
fall on the film.The focal-plane shutter in modern cameras usually consists
of two pieces of rubberized fabric that move across the focal plane.
The spacing between the fabric edges and the speed of transit determine
the effective shutter speed. Some recent models use ultra thin pieces
of titanium instead of fabric. Shutters of this type are capable of
very high speeds, in some cases 1/4,000th of a second. The entire shutter
mechanism is independent of the optical system, and it is therefore
ideal for cameras with interchangeable lenses.
The
diaphragm is one of the two factors that determines the correct film
exposure and the amount of light allowed to pass through the lens. The
amount of light allowed through the lens at a setting of 2 is twice
the amount allowed through the lens at a setting of 2.8. The standard
diaphragm
settings found
on most lenses are 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, and so on. The various
openings of the diaphragm--called f-stops--are stamped on the lens mounting.
Each change of diaphragm opening changes the amount of light passing
through the lens by a factor of 2. Mechanically reducing the aperture
improves optical performance, particularly toward the edge of the picture.
It also increases the depth of field, which is the zone of good focus.
Now
that you have some of the terminology, let's keep talking about lenses.
Your subject determines the type of lens you will need. Many people
use the famous ("I do everything") zoom to take a portrait
of a person yet the most appropriate portrait lengths are 80mm, 100mm,
135mm. These focal lengths are just long enough to remain unbstrusive
for the subject, yet easily fill the frame with a single head and shoulders
composition. They also maintain a tasteful amount of defocus in the
fore and background. F/5.6 throws enough of the background out of focus
to create a pleasing effect on the eye. can't do the same with the average
zoom because for start its maximum aperture is going to be f/3.5 or
f/4.0 depends of the lens F/5.6 sometimes, the length will change as
you move the zoom collar in or out, further confusing any serious control
you might have wanted over depth of field.
Wide
Angle and fish eye These take in allot of the scene from side to side,
are good for landscape, fish eye have an angle view of 180 degree that
give a extreme distortion, no desire effect anymore in photography.
but I love it! depends what you are taking pictures from, and what for?
both lenses can be very useful in situations when the photographer are
very limited of space, a good example can be caves. check
the pictures on Caves section_
Telephoto: These are the ones you want to use for sports or wild
life. situations were you can't be close to the subject. They have a
long and extra long focal lengths, and have greater magnification too.
A tripod is recommended for shutter speeds of 1/125 or less.
Zoom:
A zoom is a telephoto lens that can change focal lengths and thus change
magnification too. Zoom lenses are very popular you can find them in
different ranges like 35mm-80mm, 70mm-200mm, 100mm-300mm.
EQUIPMENT
To
start you don't really need that much: of course your camera, cable
realize for those long exposures, long cable always is better. Uv as
lens protection and polarizing filters, the last one increase the blue
eliminate glass reflections and help you in really brilliant days. flash
separate from your camera. Tripod at list one small, if you don't have
always try to place the camera in a solid surface or lean your body
against something still like a tree or wall for exposures under 1/60.
a small brush to on dust the lens of your camera and of course small
towels cleaning liquid. All the cleaning liquid is almost the same an
do the job just fine so if you have to chose between one of $15 than
other of $8 take the $8 one.
Depending
of the kind of photography you taking. you will develop your own needs.
remember that photography is expensive buy what you need not what you
want. Keep in mind that you are the one who going to carrier all the
equipment.
COMPOSITION
In
the beginning Most people look through the lens and concentrate in one
specific point ignoring the rest, they take the shot. then when the
film is develop find the subject always in the center and usually they
don't really like the results. there's lots more that can be done to
improve each shot, remember that the idea is make the picture interested
enough that somebody else wants to see it.
Rule
of Thirds: This is the most important of all the techniques listed.
As you look through the lens at your subject, break-up the frame into
thirds - both horizontally and vertically. Then place the subject on
one of the four lines. This takes your subject off dead center and makes
for a more interesting picture. if you going to take a portrait line
your subject in the joint of the lines, that way you move your subject
from death center.
Let's
say we are going to take a picture of this nice looking fellow.
7 GOOD TIPS
1.-
Learn all there is to know about your camera you might be pleasantly
surprised if you re-read the manuals that came with your camera.if is
hard for you understand the instructions look for somebody that can
help you whit the functions of your camera. If you don't understand
what your camera can do, how can you expect to take competent shots?
This applies to compact camera users as much as it does to SLR owners.
never be afraid to experiment, the more you understand about the gear
you use, the greater the control you'll have over your picture making.
2.-Never
shoot a portrait in bright sun It's the most unflattering thing you
could do to your subject. Shooting in direct sun can produce ugly shadows
under the nose, eyes and chin. moved the model into the shade. Also,
never mix shade with bright sun. If you do, the meter will probably
expose for the highlight and give you dark shadows and underexposed
skin tones you always can use a ND filter o porolaiser but wont help
that much. move the subject into the shade, inside or wait till the
sun gets lower in the sky.
3.-
Understand the concept of composition. many elements in the same picture
make the massage get lost. Think about the kind of photography you what
to capture. Look for the contrast. what is what you want to say whit
your picture.
4.-
use a tripod camera shake is often the culprit and can usually be sorted
quickly with a tripod. If you don't own a tripod you can make do by
leaning onto a rigid object, such as a wall, resting the camera on a
stable platform, such as a table
Decent mono pods and tripods can be picked up for less than $100 and
are a great asset for shooting in dim light, or after-dark. stay away
of those ones that have plastic hardware. plastic get wear off soon
and screws get lost really easy.
5.-
Understand the direction of light. cameras are machines design to read
light. try to find the way light is reflected in your different subject.
the beast light is the one is not back light. the best light you may
find is in the sunrise or one hour before sunset. Study it and what
it does before you take the shot. Look at what it does to people and
the textures it illuminates. Appreciate how it changes throughout the
day in a landscape. Study the light in different seasons. Try and visualize
what brighter or less intense lighting might do for the subject and
consider returning at another time for a different result.
6.-Use
the best lab In Your area one of the most obvious failings in the photography
world is in its bad processing standards. the result of inexperience
and cost-cutting in many photo express places is that your pictures
could be ruin. I learn that years ago I went to the National park San
Elias south of Alaska. I was so exited to see my pictures that i whet
to one of those places When i got my pictures all of them had this brown
line in the middle Few pictures didn't get any damage the (ugliest ones).
They didn't charge for the pictures but the negatives were ruin. After
five years I haven't be able to go back to the Park. Photography is
an expensive hobby so if you go for a budget print job don't expect
to get top results! If you are unhappy about the lab you use, change
it. If you are getting a cheap job don't expect quality and certainty
don't expect the lab to reprint images that you're not happy with. Dust
spots, red-eye and general mishandling can also make a print look awful.
7.-Try
a little self-criticism, there is nothing worse that those wanabe's
that think their pictures are the best in the world when they are not
better than student. the world id full of these guys Don't contribute
more. consider joining a camera club these organizations are great places
for contacting new photo friends. ask people that work in photography
o are serious about this hobby. learn from your mistakes and apply what
you have learned next time the shutter is pressed . if you ask to you
mom about your pictures she always going to say that are pretty. if
you ask somebody with knowledge he will tell you your mistakes.
Night
Photography
Night
time photographs are not difficult but require lot of patience. If you
own a 35mm manual camera great! that's exactly what you need. If your
camera is automatic and no manual , you can still get great results
if you have a built-in spot meter and an exposure compensation. when
you get ready to shoot, make sure that the exposure control is on 'B'
setting so that you can take long exposures (more than 1 second). you
don't need al lot of equipment to do the job. A good tripod of about
$100, a cable release and a roll of color slide film. Don't waste your
time with print film. The one hour Photo lab will ruin all your precise
exposures when they print your images. Slide film, on the other hand,
will display your images exactly the way your photographed them. When
you get a shot that you really like, you can have a professional lab
make a print directly from the slide, or have them scan it in to your
computer.
Since
you are doing long exposure times, don't worry about fast films. Use
100ASA or 160ASA film and you'll get the benefit of rich colors and
fine grain. Some night photographers use tungsten balanced slide film
such as Kodak's Elite Chrome 160T to emphasize the blue cast from the
night sky. I prefer to use Kodak E100VS (a daylight balanced film) and
then add or remove an 80B filter to emulate the blue effect of tungsten
compensation Or you can go digital like picture #5 in the night
section
It's
very difficult to make a wrong exposure at night. As long as my exposures
were longer than one second (at f/5.6), they could all be called "correct".
Different exposures gave vastly different results, but very few photos
were "bad". After a wile you may find that no matter how many
test shots and rules you come up with, each time always would be different.
experience give you a basic sense of the light technitly speaking. but
that's it. there is not a perfect rule for night photography.
The
fun Challenge of Cave Photography
Capture
the beauty of caves is not an easy challenge. Most of the people that
have visited a cave get frustrated with the results of their photography.
Take pictures of caves have their craft and can be very rewarding if
you do it right. There are photographers that devout their time and
money in photo equipment. Sometimes have the right equipment payoff.
But the reality is that the only tool you really need is your creativity
and few specialized techniques and of course a good tripod always help.
“Think
a head” there is no such thing in any project as too much preparation.
One of the first things you need to think about any field trip is weather
conditions you may be encounter. Apparently inside of a cave that may
be not a problem until you are there surrender by a heavy moisture atmosphere.
But not all caves are hummed in their full extension; this situation
tends to happened in the first section of the entrance. Have the camera
in a plastic bag won’t fix anything. Instead warm the camera with
your body or by holding a lighter close to the lens or do nothing. Either
way eventually the camera will equilibrate with the cave temperature.
So take you time at the beginning of the tour, a lens tissue or cloth
momentarily will help you during this stage.
Dark
and space are your next problem. Caves are often cramped places reason
I highly recommend only carry 2 lenses. A wide angle and zoom telephoto.
If you happened to have a lens that can give you the freedom of both
great! Remember, “Less is more”, especially when you have
to crawl into small spaces carrying all your equipment. Wide angle for
a logic reason, you may find that a regular 35mm won’t be big
enough to capture the greatness of some vaults. The telephoto lens is
good when you want a close up of a particular detail. Like an unusual
rock formation or wild life that usually lives high in the cellins.
To focus in dark is time consuming but not impossible. Take pictures
in a cave is similar to take pictures at nighttime with the advantage
that you control the light 100 percent. If there is available light
looking thought the viewfinder find a point to focus in your composition.
If there isn’t any light is very probably that you will be holding
a hand light. Use it to find a middle point to focus. If you want to
focus a bat you may consider use a red gel on top of your light, otherwise
the bat will be scare and fly away.
The
last part of the setting is about the lighting technique. You can choose
from the next three: individual flashes, light painting or strobes.
All are the same and at the same time use in different way. When you
are using flashes you need to realize that flashes are not as powerful
and big as special strobes. This is something that many photographers
can debate. Bottom line if you don’t have money to spend in a
fancy flash your flash is not powerful flash. Whish is not bad thing
simply means that you have to fire your flash at least 3 times at the
same direction. Note that if you change the direction of the flash in
one of those times your pictures will look blurring, like if you move.
The reason is simple the shadows will be different in that one time
that you move your flash in different direction.
Light painting is the same concept, only this time you are using a handheld
light instead of a flash. The exposure can be longer but it won’t
matter because the only light registered will be the one you’ll
be projecting at your subject.
check
the pictures on Caves section.
Using strobes is the best unfortunately these units are not chip and
often or always need a external battery. Depending of your equipment
the battery use for strobes tends to be heavy. But the payoff usually
is worth the effort.
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