unleashed vision

Phototips

"People think if they buy a better camera they'll take better photographs.
But a better camera won't do a thing for you if you don't have anything in your head or in your heart"
Photographer: Arnold Newman

HOW TO TAKE BETTER PICTURES

As you know,there are many brands of cameras and film on the market. We will concentrate on 35mm format. The two main categories are SLR (single lens reflex) and point and shoot. SLR's are sophisticated cameras that offers full manual control of exposure and focus. SLR cameras will accept interchangeable lenses, add on flashes, motor drives, and other accessories. There are also AF (auto focus) point and shoot cameras. The best example is the pocket camera. About the size of your hand, these cameras are equipped with a wide angle lens, usually 35mm and infrared auto focusing. Some models offer features like red-eye reduction flash and several automatic shooting modes. Both SLRs and point and shoot cameras can be expensive, which you choose is up to you. More serious photographers usually prefer to have more control over their pictures.

Photography

  • Photography History
  • Photography Tips
  • Photography Terminology


  • Photographing Mexico

  • Mexico Places and Traditions
  • Mexican Dances Photography
  • CAMERAS

    People are always amazed when somebody says that the camera is older than photography. Many discoveries and unsuccessful experiments were required to bring the camera to the technological point of being able to record an image on film. In about 1000 BC the Arabic found that light through a small hole in a dark and closed space projects an image. The first camera obscura was made to study the eclipse phenomenon.

    The history of the camera.

    Nowadays, new technology brings more and more competition, and there are many brands on the market. The difference between them is not really all that great, and most can take good pictures. However, no matter what brand you have, you must learn the basics.

    Photography is expensive so that means that the camera brand you choose for the body is the brand you are going to stickwith for awhile. Check prices and brands, and think about which system will best fit your needs.

    What ikind of photography do you want to focus on? The new 35mm cameras are great for travel because they are lightweight. The downside is that if you are in the middle of your trip and you accidentally hit it really hard it is very possible you will not have a camera for the rest of the trip. Because of that reason and night photography I like old steel body cameras, they are very heavy duty.

    I had this classmate that could never stop talking about his camera's multiple features, but he never could take a good picture. Think in what you need not what you want! There are so many cool products, cameras full of features and fancy technology. All you really need to start is just one simple camera, the rest will come in time.

    Take the time to learn the basics.

    LENSES


    There are so many types of lenses to talk about. I will start with the traditional 50mm. The 50mm lens is a normal because it renders a subject at the same scale that we see it. That is, what we see in the frame of the view finder is the same proportion that you see without the camera. They also have faster apertures--even f/1.2--and can be hand held in poor light conditions with generally good results. Also thanks to the proliferation of do-everything zooms you can find 50mm lenses at very competitive prices. But what is all about mm and f / and aperture and speed?

    There are four main types of lenses: Wide Angle, Normal, Telephoto, and Zoom. All lenses are measured in "focal length" - the length in millimeters (mm) of the internal focusing lens itself. This measurement is written somewhere on each lens--usually on the front glass. Wide angle lenses go from 17mm to 38mm, normal from 50mm to 58mm, and telephoto and zoom can be from 70mm to 1200mm.

    shutter is a mechanical device that acts as a gate, and controls the duration of time that light is allowed to pass through the lens and fall on the film.The focal-plane shutter in modern cameras usually consists of two pieces of rubberized fabric that move across the focal plane. The spacing between the fabric edges and the speed of transit determine the effective shutter speed. Some recent models use ultra thin pieces of titanium instead of fabric. Shutters of this type are capable of very high speeds, in some cases 1/4,000th of a second. The entire shutter mechanism is independent of the optical system, and it is therefore ideal for cameras with interchangeable lenses.

    The diaphragm is one of the two factors that determines the correct film exposure and the amount of light allowed to pass through the lens. The amount of light allowed through the lens at a setting of 2 is twice the amount allowed through the lens at a setting of 2.8. The standard diaphragm settings found on most lenses are 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, and so on. The various openings of the diaphragm--called f-stops--are stamped on the lens mounting. Each change of diaphragm opening changes the amount of light passing through the lens by a factor of 2. Mechanically reducing the aperture improves optical performance, particularly toward the edge of the picture. It also increases the depth of field, which is the zone of good focus.

    Now that you have some of the terminology, let's keep talking about lenses. Your subject determines the type of lens you will need. Many people use the famous ("I do everything") zoom to take a portrait of a person yet the most appropriate portrait lengths are 80mm, 100mm, 135mm. These focal lengths are just long enough to remain unbstrusive for the subject, yet easily fill the frame with a single head and shoulders composition. They also maintain a tasteful amount of defocus in the fore and background. F/5.6 throws enough of the background out of focus to create a pleasing effect on the eye. can't do the same with the average zoom because for start its maximum aperture is going to be f/3.5 or f/4.0 depends of the lens F/5.6 sometimes, the length will change as you move the zoom collar in or out, further confusing any serious control you might have wanted over depth of field.

    Wide Angle and fish eye These take in allot of the scene from side to side, are good for landscape, fish eye have an angle view of 180 degree that give a extreme distortion, no desire effect anymore in photography. but I love it! depends what you are taking pictures from, and what for? both lenses can be very useful in situations when the photographer are very limited of space, a good example can be caves.
    check the pictures on Caves section_

    Telephoto: These are the ones you want to use for sports or wild life. situations were you can't be close to the subject. They have a long and extra long focal lengths, and have greater magnification too. A tripod is recommended for shutter speeds of 1/125 or less.

    Zoom:
    A zoom is a telephoto lens that can change focal lengths and thus change magnification too. Zoom lenses are very popular you can find them in different ranges like 35mm-80mm, 70mm-200mm, 100mm-300mm.


    FILM
    If you see the film box you always going to see ASA or ISO that stands for American Standard Association, in Europe is DIN. after that the number 100, 200, 400. that indicates the "speed" or light sensitivity of the film and the film's grain size.

     Film Speed  ASA 100  ASA 200  ASA 400  ASA 800
    ASA 1600
     Bright Outdoor

     X

     X

    X

       
     Partly Sunny

     X

     X

     X

       
     Overcast  

     X

     X

       
     Indoor Flash  

     X

     X

     X

     
     Normal Action  

     X

     X

     X

     
     Fast Action    

     X

     X

    X
     Very Low Light    

     X

     X

    X

    Unfortunely bigger the ASA bier the grain you get. This is important because film speed determines the sharpness in a print if you want just 4x6 prints even 800 will be ok but if you want to enlarge at 8x10 or bigger your image will be grainy. small grain films retain sharpness ASA/ISO 25, 50, and 100 are small grain - 200 and 400 are medium - 800, higher is large grain.



    Film is sold in two ways: rolls of 24 or 36 exposures that you buy off store or 100 foot (30.5 meter) rolls at professional photography stores. The difference is the aging process. Film goes through a color shift as it gets older. New film might show a blueness in a print where as old film shifts to browns and oranges. It is true that you may roll you own film in empty cassettes. buying this kind of film rolling machine that cost about $15-30; the reusable film cassettes are about 75 cts. each but once you have these items are forever.

    EQUIPMENT

    To start you don't really need that much: of course your camera, cable realize for those long exposures, long cable always is better. Uv as lens protection and polarizing filters, the last one increase the blue eliminate glass reflections and help you in really brilliant days. flash separate from your camera. Tripod at list one small, if you don't have always try to place the camera in a solid surface or lean your body against something still like a tree or wall for exposures under 1/60. a small brush to on dust the lens of your camera and of course small towels cleaning liquid. All the cleaning liquid is almost the same an do the job just fine so if you have to chose between one of $15 than other of $8 take the $8 one.

    Depending of the kind of photography you taking. you will develop your own needs. remember that photography is expensive buy what you need not what you want. Keep in mind that you are the one who going to carrier all the equipment.

    COMPOSITION

    In the beginning Most people look through the lens and concentrate in one specific point ignoring the rest, they take the shot. then when the film is develop find the subject always in the center and usually they don't really like the results. there's lots more that can be done to improve each shot, remember that the idea is make the picture interested enough that somebody else wants to see it.

    Rule of Thirds: This is the most important of all the techniques listed. As you look through the lens at your subject, break-up the frame into thirds - both horizontally and vertically. Then place the subject on one of the four lines. This takes your subject off dead center and makes for a more interesting picture. if you going to take a portrait line your subject in the joint of the lines, that way you move your subject from death center.

    Let's say we are going to take a picture of this nice looking fellow.

    *  *
     * *
       1  2













    Now If you notes as longest you have something in each joint or most of them your picture will be on balance.

    Keep in mind this rule, this is a good basic technic that give you a better idea that how organize your picture. But it is not that rigorous. Many photographer that dominate this technic often break it whit good results.

    In the beginning be simple choosing your subjects, make sure that what you want look clear and stand in the picture, some times trying to get to many elements confuse your subject with the others elements in the picture or just get lost in the background. Often too many subjects make the message of the picture get lost. To ad subjects or take out to our frame. Just move yourself a little bit, change position, to the left or to the right walk one or two steps forward or back up, get in your need or lay down in the floor if you are not comfortable yet turn your camera vertical change the lens for a bigger one or smaller depends of your needs.


    Look for contrast, if your subject is dark look for a lighter background if your subject is white look for a darker background to make stand what is important in the picture. Because can turn confusing if don't do it in the right way.
    Look the direction of the movement, always is good leave some space in front were the subject is moving. Folowing the eyes is a good example of direction. If the person is looking at the right put it on the left side, if is looking ant left put it in the right side. Leave open spaces in the direction were is looking.

    7 GOOD TIPS

    1.- Learn all there is to know about your camera you might be pleasantly surprised if you re-read the manuals that came with your camera.if is hard for you understand the instructions look for somebody that can help you whit the functions of your camera. If you don't understand what your camera can do, how can you expect to take competent shots? This applies to compact camera users as much as it does to SLR owners. never be afraid to experiment, the more you understand about the gear you use, the greater the control you'll have over your picture making.

    2.-Never shoot a portrait in bright sun It's the most unflattering thing you could do to your subject. Shooting in direct sun can produce ugly shadows under the nose, eyes and chin. moved the model into the shade. Also, never mix shade with bright sun. If you do, the meter will probably expose for the highlight and give you dark shadows and underexposed skin tones you always can use a ND filter o porolaiser but wont help that much. move the subject into the shade, inside or wait till the sun gets lower in the sky.

    3.- Understand the concept of composition. many elements in the same picture make the massage get lost. Think about the kind of photography you what to capture. Look for the contrast. what is what you want to say whit your picture.

    4.- use a tripod camera shake is often the culprit and can usually be sorted quickly with a tripod. If you don't own a tripod you can make do by leaning onto a rigid object, such as a wall, resting the camera on a stable platform, such as a table
    Decent mono pods and tripods can be picked up for less than $100 and are a great asset for shooting in dim light, or after-dark. stay away of those ones that have plastic hardware. plastic get wear off soon and screws get lost really easy.

    5.- Understand the direction of light. cameras are machines design to read light. try to find the way light is reflected in your different subject. the beast light is the one is not back light. the best light you may find is in the sunrise or one hour before sunset. Study it and what it does before you take the shot. Look at what it does to people and the textures it illuminates. Appreciate how it changes throughout the day in a landscape. Study the light in different seasons. Try and visualize what brighter or less intense lighting might do for the subject and consider returning at another time for a different result.

    6.-Use the best lab In Your area one of the most obvious failings in the photography world is in its bad processing standards. the result of inexperience and cost-cutting in many photo express places is that your pictures could be ruin. I learn that years ago I went to the National park San Elias south of Alaska. I was so exited to see my pictures that i whet to one of those places When i got my pictures all of them had this brown line in the middle Few pictures didn't get any damage the (ugliest ones). They didn't charge for the pictures but the negatives were ruin. After five years I haven't be able to go back to the Park. Photography is an expensive hobby so if you go for a budget print job don't expect to get top results! If you are unhappy about the lab you use, change it. If you are getting a cheap job don't expect quality and certainty don't expect the lab to reprint images that you're not happy with. Dust spots, red-eye and general mishandling can also make a print look awful.

    7.-Try a little self-criticism, there is nothing worse that those wanabe's that think their pictures are the best in the world when they are not better than student. the world id full of these guys Don't contribute more. consider joining a camera club these organizations are great places for contacting new photo friends. ask people that work in photography o are serious about this hobby. learn from your mistakes and apply what you have learned next time the shutter is pressed . if you ask to you mom about your pictures she always going to say that are pretty. if you ask somebody with knowledge he will tell you your mistakes.

    Night Photography

    Night Photography is Fun!Night time photographs are not difficult but require lot of patience. If you own a 35mm manual camera great! that's exactly what you need. If your camera is automatic and no manual , you can still get great results if you have a built-in spot meter and an exposure compensation. when you get ready to shoot, make sure that the exposure control is on 'B' setting so that you can take long exposures (more than 1 second). you don't need al lot of equipment to do the job. A good tripod of about $100, a cable release and a roll of color slide film. Don't waste your time with print film. The one hour Photo lab will ruin all your precise exposures when they print your images. Slide film, on the other hand, will display your images exactly the way your photographed them. When you get a shot that you really like, you can have a professional lab make a print directly from the slide, or have them scan it in to your computer.

    Barcelona Spain Since you are doing long exposure times, don't worry about fast films. Use 100ASA or 160ASA film and you'll get the benefit of rich colors and fine grain. Some night photographers use tungsten balanced slide film such as Kodak's Elite Chrome 160T to emphasize the blue cast from the night sky. I prefer to use Kodak E100VS (a daylight balanced film) and then add or remove an 80B filter to emulate the blue effect of tungsten compensation Or you can go digital like picture #5 in the night section

    It's very difficult to make a wrong exposure at night. As long as my exposures were longer than one second (at f/5.6), they could all be called "correct". Different exposures gave vastly different results, but very few photos were "bad". After a wile you may find that no matter how many test shots and rules you come up with, each time always would be different. experience give you a basic sense of the light technitly speaking. but that's it. there is not a perfect rule for night photography.

    The fun Challenge of Cave Photography

    Juxtlahuaca MexicoCapture the beauty of caves is not an easy challenge. Most of the people that have visited a cave get frustrated with the results of their photography. Take pictures of caves have their craft and can be very rewarding if you do it right. There are photographers that devout their time and money in photo equipment. Sometimes have the right equipment payoff. But the reality is that the only tool you really need is your creativity and few specialized techniques and of course a good tripod always help.

    “Think a head” there is no such thing in any project as too much preparation. One of the first things you need to think about any field trip is weather conditions you may be encounter. Apparently inside of a cave that may be not a problem until you are there surrender by a heavy moisture atmosphere. But not all caves are hummed in their full extension; this situation tends to happened in the first section of the entrance. Have the camera in a plastic bag won’t fix anything. Instead warm the camera with your body or by holding a lighter close to the lens or do nothing. Either way eventually the camera will equilibrate with the cave temperature. So take you time at the beginning of the tour, a lens tissue or cloth momentarily will help you during this stage.

    Dark and space are your next problem. Caves are often cramped places reason I highly recommend only carry 2 lenses. A wide angle and zoom telephoto. If you happened to have a lens that can give you the freedom of both great! Remember, “Less is more”, especially when you have to crawl into small spaces carrying all your equipment. Wide angle for a logic reason, you may find that a regular 35mm won’t be big enough to capture the greatness of some vaults. The telephoto lens is good when you want a close up of a particular detail. Like an unusual rock formation or wild life that usually lives high in the cellins.
    To focus in dark is time consuming but not impossible. Take pictures in a cave is similar to take pictures at nighttime with the advantage that you control the light 100 percent. If there is available light looking thought the viewfinder find a point to focus in your composition. If there isn’t any light is very probably that you will be holding a hand light. Use it to find a middle point to focus. If you want to focus a bat you may consider use a red gel on top of your light, otherwise the bat will be scare and fly away.Star Grottos Mexico

    The last part of the setting is about the lighting technique. You can choose from the next three: individual flashes, light painting or strobes. All are the same and at the same time use in different way. When you are using flashes you need to realize that flashes are not as powerful and big as special strobes. This is something that many photographers can debate. Bottom line if you don’t have money to spend in a fancy flash your flash is not powerful flash. Whish is not bad thing simply means that you have to fire your flash at least 3 times at the same direction. Note that if you change the direction of the flash in one of those times your pictures will look blurring, like if you move. The reason is simple the shadows will be different in that one time that you move your flash in different direction.
    Light painting is the same concept, only this time you are using a handheld light instead of a flash. The exposure can be longer but it won’t matter because the only light registered will be the one you’ll be projecting at your subject.
    check the pictures on Caves section. Using strobes is the best unfortunately these units are not chip and often or always need a external battery. Depending of your equipment the battery use for strobes tends to be heavy. But the payoff usually is worth the effort.

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